“Jasmine I” embroidery on silk organza, jasmine scented yarn dyed with hibiscus, beetroot, indigo and turmeric, 36 x 54 inches. All images © Pallavi Padukone, shared with permission
Smell, memory, and emotion are inseparable in the human brain, so a single sniff may evoke feelings of pleasure, comfort, and calm associated with the experience. Pallavi Padukone uses this inner connection in Reminiscent, a series of six fiber-based works infused with naturally derived scents. The textile artist and designer equates all of these with her hometown of Bangalore, India. .
Part is aromatherapy, part is nostalgic stimulation, and fiber fragments hang down from the ceiling, like delicate transparent curtains that can be reached from all sides. Padukone uses threads covered with wax and resin substances that she developed through trial and error for weaving and embroidery. “The testing phase of coated yarns includes sampling the most suitable yarn structure and embroidery techniques. I keep sample records to test their durability and how long the smell and color will last when exposed to heat and light. ,”she says.
“Sandalwood”, cell phone and machine embroidered sandalwood scented yarn, dyed with nutch and beetroot, overlaid on layered organza silk dyed with nutch, rojo quebracho, walnut, madder and iron, 13.5 x 15 inches
The cotton yarn is infused with cloves, vetiver, jasmine, lemongrass, sandalwood or rose, naturally hand-dyed, and turmeric and rusty gold are extracted from cut vegetables and beets to match the corresponding aroma. “When wearing a mask became the new normal, I happened to choose the smell, which is ironic,” Padukone told Colossal. “Although the beauty of olfactory art is that it must be experienced in person, I use textiles, patterns and colors as a way to visually express my depiction of perfume personality.” For example, the patchwork of yellow and green exudes lemongrass. The lemon-like scent of green grass, while the sweet musk sandalwood is matched with the thick and abstract yarn loops on the dark brown silk.
Although many works incorporate fragrance, the undyed organza in “Jasmine II” is covered with small pockets to ensure that Padukone can replace flower buds. Considering that most perfumes last for one to three months, she is currently exploring other ways to allow supplementation. However, the ephemeral nature of the transmission is part of its appeal. She explained:
I discovered the beauty of impermanence and how the color, structure, and fragrance of each textile change over time. In this series, I use hand-spun recycled saris and cotton for my weaving and embroidery on organza. I was attracted by the purity of the fabric. The way it interacts with light visually evokes a brief experience of perfume.
Padukone lives and works in New York, and you can see more Reminiscent and other textile-based projects on her website and Instagram.
“Citronella I”, hand-woven pre-dyed cotton and citronella scented yarn dyed with turmeric, indigo and chili, 16 x 40 inches
“Sandalwood”, mobile phone and machine embroidered sandalwood scented yarn, dyed with cutch and beetroot on layered organza dyed with cutch, rojo quebracho, walnut, madder and iron, 13.5 x 15 inches
“Jasmine I” embroidery on silk organza, jasmine scented yarn dyed with hibiscus, beetroot, indigo and turmeric, 36 x 54 inches.
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Post time: Jun-02-2021